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as hot as possible without scorching the cloth. Should the heat change
the color of the material, iron it all over. Do not do any stamping by
this process on a hot or damp day if it can be avoided. Keep the
powder in a cool, dry place. In stamping with light-colored powder,
the best way to fasten it is to hold the back of the cloth against the
stovepipe or the face of the iron. French stamping is better, however,
for all dark materials. To take the powder up on the distributor, have
a tin plate with a piece of woolen cloth glued on the bottom, sprinkle
a little powder on the cloth, and rub the distributor over it, taking
care to shake off all the powder you can--enough will remain to stamp
the pattern clearly.
TO MAKE A DISTRIBUTOR.
Take a strip of fine felt almost an inch wide (a strip from an old
felt hat is as good as anything), roll it up tightly into a roll,
leaving the end flat, and rub the end over a piece of sand paper to
make it smooth and even.
TO MAKE BLUE POWDER.
Take equal parts of gum damar and white rosin and just enough Persian
blue to color it. Mix well together.
Other colors are made the same, using for coloring chrome yellow (for
light-colored powder), burnt sienna, lampblack, etc. Black powder is
improved by adding a little blue to it.
TO MAKE WHITE POWDER.
Take one ounce white lead; half ounce gum arabic, in the impalpable
powder; half ounce white rosin, in the fine powder. All well mixed.
SUPERIOR DARK BLUE POWDER.
One ounce white rosin; one half ounce gum sandarac; one half ounce
Prussian blue, in fine powder. Mix all thoroughly.
FRENCH INDELIBLE STAMPING.
This is the best process for all dark materials; in fact, this and the
blue powder are all that will ever be needed. By this process a kind
of paint is used instead of powder, and a brush instead of a pouncet.
Place the pattern on the cloth, smooth side up if you can (though
either side will work well), weight the pattern down as in stamping.
Rub the paint evenly over the perforations, and it will leave the
lines clean, sharp and distinct. After the stamping is done, the
pattern must be cleaned immediately. This is done by placing the
pattern on the table and turning benzine or naphtha over it to cut the
paint and then wiping the pattern dry on both sides with an old cloth,
or, better still, with common waste--such as machinists use to clean
machinery; this is cheap and absorbs the paint and naphtha quickly.
Hold the pattern up to the light to see if the holes are all clear; if
they are not, wash it the second time. Do not use the pattern for
powder immediately after it has been washed; let it dry a short time,
otherwise the moistened gum will clog the perforations.
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