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For begonia rex, use crimson flock; for the rubra, use glaucous flock;
and for the palmata, use brown flock. Very good stemming may be made
by tinting canton flannel, which has a very long nap or pile.
GERANIUM LEAVES--ROSE GERANIUM.
This leaf is of a dark chrome green. Prepare the wax in two shades,
dark chrome green and light; immerse the leaves in soapsuds for six
hours; take out of the soapsuds and lay it on the marble slab. As
there is neither shading nor marking on the leaf, all that is required
is to give it a coat of dark chrome green, thick enough to prevent the
wires from showing; then lay the wires over the veins and coat them
over with a light shade of green. Remove the natural leaf, and as the
texture of the rose geranium leaf is rather rough, rub it over with
green flock mixed with hair powder. The stems may be left in different
The best directions that we can give for the tinting and marking of
leaves is to copy from nature. The cyclamen leaf is well adapted for
the practice of marking and tinting.
The leaf of the pond lily, lotus, canna, maranta, rubber tree,
magnolia, camellia, orange, and all leaves which have a waxy surface,
should either be varnished or bronzed.
All kinds of leaves may be made by the foregoing directions.--_Popular
This is another name for a style that has been in vogue for an
indefinite, period of time, and comes under the head of transferring.
It is almost superfluous to mention the variety of purposes to which
decalcomania may be applied, as it can be transferred upon everything
for which ornamentation is required, and the variety of designs which
are printed especially for it is so great that something may easily be
procured to suit the taste of the most fastidious.
A few of the articles that may be decorated can be mentioned by way of
showing what a variety this style of ornamentation will embrace: All
kinds of crockery, china, porcelain, vases, glass, bookcases, folios,
boxes, lap desks, ribbons, dresses, etc. The method of transferring
beautiful designs is so simple, and all the materials requisite for
the art so easily procured, that it brings it within the means of
everyone. Flat surfaces are more suitable than concave or convex ones
for this style of decorating, for when the surface is curved the
design has to be cut to accommodate the shape, and in this way is
often spoiled unless done by the most careful and skillful hand. The
materials required are cement, copal varnish, designs, a duck-quill
sable, and a flat camel's-hair brush.
Cut your designs neatly with a small pair of scissors, apply the
cement by means of the sable to the article to be decorated, place on
your design and press equally over its entire surface to exclude the
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